Please read below the list of standards to check off before you arrive at an event. All cars are scrutineered so to save yourself time at the event please ensure you take note of everything. These are all considered compulsory unless otherwise stated.
- YOUR CAR MUST ACTUALLY RESEMBLE A CAR
ALL CARS must start the day with a FULL set of body panels fitted. This means your front/rear guards, boot and bonnet. If your car is overheating during the day with a bonnet on then you will be able to remove it, but understand this is simply masking a deeper problem with your cooling system needing to be upgraded before your next track day.
- TAIL LIGHTS
Your car must have FUNCTIONAL taillights or at the bare minimum a light strip along the top of the roof. We shouldn't have to mention them but we do, to the rare few who have shown up with trailer style lights or similar jimmied up, these will no longer be accepted.
- HEADLIGHTS / COVERS
All cars must start the day with a form of headlight or at the bare minimum, a cover in place of where headlights would be to fill the gap.
If factory headlights don't fit into your budget or they simply don't will not work with certain tubeframe or intercooler setups, we recommend you can use:
+ An aftermarket bulb setup (search Kurt Blackie R32 on Google) or small individual light bars either side is acceptable.
+ Fibreglass cover/shell in place of where the cars factory lights would be. Pro tip: Have a signwriter print out a vinyl headlight overlay which will make your car look like you have a factory headlight.
+ If your intercooler piping gets in the way and you want to run a headlight frame instead of fibreglass covers, find some scrap lights and cut the plastic backing away. This was done by many Formula D & D1GP drivers using the outer shell of the headlight to fill this void. This is a cheap easy fix and it also vastly improves the look of your car over a fibreglass cover so its a win win.
Note: Currently, headlights do not need to be wired up at this stage but is recommended. They will be required for any twilight sessions we may run at Matsuri.
All in all, we want to continue improving the sport we all love here in NZ. Yes we understand the above wont "make your car skid any better" but lets remove that mentality and take some pride in how our cars are presented for everyone to appreciate, besides who doesn't want their car to look better. That means more photos for you to enjoy post event!
Safety Check for Scrutineering
REAR FUEL FIREWALLS (EXTERNAL/AFTERMARKET FUEL SYSTEMS)
+ Cars with ANY aftermarket or external fuel system present in the boot/hatch area MUST fit a rear fuel firewall to seperate the boot area from the cabin made from panel steel or poly carbonate. This is to both to sheild you from fuel if a fitting fails and also give you valuable time in containing a fire behind you so you and your passengers can get out safely.
+ Any holes bigger than 15mm must also be covered over, this includes parcel tray area etc. Use fire resistent gold/foil tape or urethane some panel steel over top.
+ Sedans/Coupes Firewall, this is typically the area behind the rear seats where there is a whole that seperates the boot from the inside of the car. Install of piece of metal or lexan to this opening when the car is stripped.
+ Hatchbacks Firewall i.e. 180sx / RX7. You may either use a drop box and sit all aftermarket fuel components inside it with a polycarbonate or aluminium lid which you can shut on top after refilling OR fit a vertical polycarbonate firewall forward of the fuel cell to sit flush against the hatch glass. Contact us if you have any questions regarding this.
FRONT FIRE WALL (All Vehicles)
+ Any holes which are open between the engine firewall and cockpit must be covered. For large holes, use sections of panel steel and urethane in place, small holes gold foil tape will suffice. Same thing as above, this is to restrict the amount of fire able to enter into the cabin if there is an engine fire/fuel fitting failure.
Trust us, we have seen it happen, and it happens fast.
+ Batteries must be securely mounted and clamped into position with a proper battery clamp. No exceptions.
+ Relocated Batteries must be in a battery box, dry cell is okay to be exposed
+ Positive terminals to have the correct insulation cover or insulation tape over them
+ ECU mounted securely (simply cable tie it firmly to something at the very least)
+ All loose cables to cable tied neatly to avoid shorting on anything.
+ If your oil system is venting, a minimum of a 500ml aluminium catch can must be used.
+ Factory engines can recirculate oil venting as factory, or vent to catch can only
+ No leaks around fuel/oil area
+ Please use fire proof fire sleeve around oil drain/lines where possible.
+ Securely mounted
+ Driveshaft hoop recommended
+ Rotaries, we recommend an aftermarket scatter blanket or steel bellhousing with your gearbox to save your legs if your flywheel ejects itself through your gearbox tunnel.
AFTERMARKET LINES (OIL / FUEL)
+ Fuel lines to be run underneath the vehicle unless to MSNZ standard. Contact us via email@example.com or preferrably on our Drift Matsuri Facebook page if you have questions.
+ Use appropriate fuel line and fittings. Please, do not cheap out on hose and fittings. We have seen "fUeL LiNe" which balloon up and eat away the inside of the hose and also cause MASSIVE fires. Check all fuel and oil fittings/lines for leaks.
+ Ensure your fuel tank seal isn't leaking (common with factory tanks which have been tampered with.
+ Minimum of 1x, 1kg Fire Extinguisher bolted to the car, within reach of the driver. Typically on gearbox tunnel or under drivers seat. Mounted with 2x M6 bolt/nut. Alternatively a 5kg fitted as a 1kg will only give you enough to contain it till recovery can get to you.
+ Functional inside door latches on both sides (incase of a fire)
+ Working kill switch within reach of the driver. Typically on gearbox tunnel (for standard cars with no modified wiring or fuel system, this does not apply as your factory ignition will work)
+ Seats mounted firmly with all four bolts to the body. If your seat can be moved by hand while stationary, picture what it will do in the event of an impact on the track.
+ Fixed bucket seats = Harnesses are highly recommended (no tears or rips. Expired FIA is okay), dependant on the seat design, a standard seat belt may suffice. This is based on the location of the seat belt touching the shoulder bolster before your body, in a crash you will move further forward before the seat belt engages. We take no responsibility for this if you choose to go out with this fixed back seat/belt combo.
+ Factory seats/Reclinable = Factory Seatbelt. Harnesses will not be accepted due to the seats recliner mechanism will snap in a heavy impact.
+ All cars must start the event with ALL body panels fitted including front gaurds and bonnet present unless prior communication is made with management.
+ Front bumper optional but preferred for advanced drivers
+ Factory front screen fitted. No heavily cracked or smashed screens accepted.
+ Rear screen fitted. Perspex rear okay.
+ Functional latches on bonnet and boot, otherwise use appropriate pins with correct fixing. This is to access the appropriate areas in case of an emergency/fire.
+ Tow hooks must be easily accessible and visibly labeled front and rear - if your car is extremely low, please fit aftermarket tow hooks or loops to extend out the front/rear or your bumper.
EXHAUST SYSTEMS & EXTERNAL WASTEGATES
+ Exhaust noise limits are restricted to 95db on some tracks (Ruapuna/Hampton). Please fit a resonator or muffler to avoid having your day shortened by track management.
+ Exhaust must exit no sooner than behind the front door unless exiting out the bonnet
+ Exhausts exiting out the rear bumper must be no longer than 250mm past the exit point. Overly long exhausts are not accepted.
+ Exhausts and Wastegate pipes exiting out the bonnet, the limit is 100mm protuding out the bonnet and must be straight up to avoid spraying your passenger with excess fuel vapor.
+ Noise limits Non Turbo Cars must have a muffler or resonater fitted, it becomes a nightmare for staff and neighbouring residents listening to straight piped N/A cars all day.
+ Ruapuna Raceway: Where possible please plumb your screamer pipes into your exhaust to avoid excess noise.
WELD IN ROLL CAGES
+ FULL 6pt or more roll cages are not compulsory but you will need one to take passengers (with side intrusion)
+ Homologation is not required but the roll cage must be built to a high standard by a qualified person to suit current or past homologation standards (i.e. old pipe size okay) with complete, clean welds.
+ Side intrusion bars required for passengers in tandems
BOLT IN ROLL CAGES
+ Bolt in Roll Cages are acceptable with a few requirements
+ Bolt in Cages must be mounted securely with footings correctly anchored with appropriate sandwich plates on underside of the body.
+ The use of nyloc nuts throughout the entire cage and body mounting points.
+ Side intrusion bars required for passengers in tandems
THINGS WE WILL NOT CHECK AT SCRUTINEERING BUT YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR
+ Working brakes
+ Check your wheel studs (especially on the rear) we have seen many rear wheels snap off the disk from repeated excessive tighetening and loosening. Replace where necessary. You must have the correct amount of wheel nuts to wheel studs.
+ It is recommended and best practice that you double check your fuel cap, bonnet pins and wheels are done up properly between and before drift sessions, especially if multiple people are helping you on the day. Better safe than sorry!
Any questions contact firstname.lastname@example.org or our Facebook Page.